Considering Sisterlocks? From Cost to Upkeep, Here's What You Should Know

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@aysha.sow / Design by Michela Buttignol

Sisterlocks are one of the most beautiful styles for natural hair. Aside from their beauty, Sisterlocks are incredibly versatile since you can roller set, color, braid, or wear them wild and free. They even make for an ideal transition style if you're ready to say goodbye to your relaxer. Since the locking process begins at the root, you can gradually cut off any straight ends as your hair grows out.

Below, we're sharing their origin story, what to expect at your appointment, what makes them different from locs, and how to care for them. 

The Origin of Sisterlocks

Sisterlocks were created and trademarked in 1993 by Dr. JoAnne Cornwell. In her own words on the Sisterlocks official website, Cornwell's mission says, "Sisterlocks is not about a hairstyle. It's about a lifestyle. Sisterlocks invites women who are interested in self-empowerment and cultural self-expression to embrace a natural hair care system that is self-affirming and truly gorgeous."

Nearly 30 years later, Black women worldwide are on the path Dr. Cornwell was hoping to inspire. Before you embark on your Sisterlock journey, there are a few things you should keep in mind. One of the most crucial research points is to ensure you find a certified Sisterlock consultant since they are professionally trained on the Sisterlock technique.

Meet the Experts

Larry Sims is a celebrity hairstylist and co-founder of Flawless by Gabrielle Union.

What Are Sisterlocks?

According to celebrity hairstylist Larry Sims, "Sisterlocs are similar to microbraids, but they’re essentially just small locs. They’re installed using the interlocking method, which uses a special latch hook tool to create the locs." They should only be installed by certified Sisterlock consultants.

Sisterlocks vs Locs 

Locs and Sisterlocks require different time commitments, for starters. When locing your hair for the first time, you can expect your appointment to last between two to three hours, depending on your hair length, thickness, and the overall look you're hoping to achieve as your hair grows.

Sims explains, "Sisterlocs are installed using a tool that starts the style at the end of your hair rather than the root, therefore minimizing damage to the hair follicle as there’s less pulling involved in the installation process. Sisterlocs are much smaller than traditional locs, so they take a lot longer to install."

Sisterlocks can take up to 36 hours to install because of the intricate weaving technique used to loc the hair with a patented latch hook tool. Where locs require wax to twist larger sections of hair, Sisterlocks are installed with no hair product on small sections of hair. This precise and time-intensive process can create over 400 locs, which explains why your first Sisterlock session usually starts at about $500 and goes up to $800 (sometimes more depending on your consultant's skill level and training).

With locs, you can start with braids, two-strand twists, palm rolls, or comb coils. With Sisterlocks, your consultant will use the tool to install a few locs during your consultation to see which pattern will work best on your hair type.

How to Prepare for Getting Sisterlocks

One of the most important decisions you'll make before getting sisterlocks is what loctician will install the style. The Sisterlocks technique is a one-of-a-kind experience that requires hands-on training to ensure the trademarked method is performed correctly. (There is a full directory of consultants to select from here.) Before scheduling an appointment, take a look at your future consultant's social media page or website, since those marketing tools can ensure you're making the right choice.

How to Care for Sisterlocks After Your First Appointment

Between re-twisting sessions, cleansing your hair is essential, but this won't be the same as the shampooing process you're used to because of slippage (or when the hair begins to unravel and frizz). This is something you'll want to watch out for until your locks "settle," which can take up to a year. Until your locks mature, make sure to be gentle to ensure they keep their structure. Processes like bundling, braiding, and banding Sisterlocks are common practices wearers use on wash days, which Lavenia's detailed video helps showcase below. 

Additionally, Sims adds, "Sisterlocs are fairly low maintenance. You should sleep with a silk bonnet or pillowcase to prevent frizz and oil your scalp to keep it moisturized. In order to maintain them for as long as possible, be sure to use a gentle shampoo and get them tightened once a month."

Additionally, the namesake Sisterlocks shampoo is recommended as your locks mature, as the formula was created specifically for the locking process.

How to Care for Sisterlocs Long Term

After installation, how you care for your hair will determine how well your locs mature. A follow-up visit is recommended, usually two to four weeks after your first appointment. After your follow-up, re-twisting every four to six weeks is advised to keep your locs healthy and looking their best. The retightening sessions start at about $100 and usually take three to five hours. However, after six months with your consultant, you can take a retightening class to learn to do the maintenance on your own.

Sims also recommends using the Flawless by Gabrielle Union Restoring Exotic Oil Treatment ($11) for daily upkeep. "I love using this oil for daily upkeep to protective styles. It’s infused with Indian Neem Oil and Jojoba Oil which helps seal in moisture and reduce frizz."

How Much Do Sisterlocks Cost to Start and Maintain?

The process of starting and maintaining Sisterlocks is not cheap. On average, they can cost anywhere from $400 and all the way up to a whopping $900+ to start. How much you pay usually depends to how thin you'd like your sisterlocks, preferred length, the stylist, and your location.

The cost of maintenance is another factor to take into consideration. You'll need to re-tighten your locks several times a year—up to six times a year to be exact, and each re-tightening session can cost anywhere from $100-$250. So you're looking at anywhere between an additional $600-$1500 a year for maintenance as well.

The Final Takeaway

Starting Sisterlocks can be a life-changing process for many, and community plays an integral part in that process. There are many forums, Instagram accounts, and YouTube communities that provide a safe space for Black women to share their tips and learnings as they grow their hair, so know that you have many resources available to help make the journey as enjoyable as possible.

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